We dance in Avignon

"Sur le Pont d'Avignon

L'on y danse, l'on y danse

Sur le Pont d'Avignon

L'on y danse tous en rond"

• A popular French children’s song dating back to the 15th century.

Avignon was nothing like what I expected. That said, I only really knew that that the Avignon Papacy between 1309-1377 caused a rife with the Catholic church in Italy, and for a small period of time, there were two popes claiming the papacy—one in Avignon and one in Rome. Thank you, Rick Steves.

However, Avignon was my first taste of the south of France. Despite not being on the coast, the city was much more Mediterranean than any of the cities I had visited previously. There was a very clear Italian influence on the fashion and the food. Instead of the polished looks of Parisians, with their scarves and suits, the people in Avignon were dressed much more casually in shorts and sundresses. There also seemed to be a larger hip-hop presence in Avignon, something that wasn’t all that prevalent in Paris. Even Italian foods such as pasta, pizza and gelato were everywhere!

While checking into what I can only describe as a bohemian hotel, we were greeted by a very friendly host who described some of the best ways to see the city. We walked through the various places, pedestrian squares often set up with café terrace seating and ice cream stands, to get to the Pope’s palace. It was impressive in its size, but not particularly beautiful, in my opinion. We also walked the major shopping street, where stores like Hermés and Gucci tantalized passersby with sparkling but impossibly expensive merchandise. I did stop in one store where I found the perfect gift for Aaron. It is a surprise, but I will give you a hint... It is related to cats. :)

Our second day in Avignon was a Sunday. The narrow Roman streets were very quiet until you reached the Sunday market where colorful spices, stinky cheeses and the slightly metallic smell of fish were overwhelming. My mom and I bought lunch there: some fruit, bread, carrots and pasta salad. We made our way to the park across the Rhône and picnicked near the water. In fact, the park was clearly the place to be on a blue-sky Sunday. The park was filled with families, cyclists and teenagers balancing on tight ropes. An interesting fact: in France, it is legal to drink in most public places, so small groups and sunbathers often had open bottles of wine.

After lunch, we took the free ferry back to town. In fact, the famous bridge meant to connect the town and the park—the same one featured in the children’s song I mentioned at the beginning of this post—does not actually reach the other side of the Rhône. It only goes half way across and remains an important architectural monument. From what I’ve gathered, the bridge was built at an unstable point on the river. They had rebuilt the bridge a number of times before finally deciding it wasn’t worth the restoration.

With time to kill, we explored the rest of the small town by foot and stumbled upon an antique market lining the boutique streets. With the expensive stores closed on Sunday, vendors had set up their goods on tables and blankets right in front of the storefronts, a situational irony that I believe was completely purposeful. Second hand clothing, books and ceramics were everywhere! We also found some vintage designer bags and scarves, antique chandeliers, tea sets… you name it! In essence, it was a giant garage sale. With no room in my luggage, it was easy not be tempted in to buying anything, but wandering through the bazaar was an entertaining way to spend the afternoon.

On our third day, my mom and I finally parted ways. After a sad farewell, she boarded a train back to Paris to catch her flight back home, and I continued on my journey, heading next to Aix-en-Provence!

#photo #avignon #france #ricksteves #pope #bridge #antiques #wine #mediterranean #dance #roman